ABB VFD Fault 2310: How to Measure Voltage with a Multimeter (and Why a $9 Meter Cost Us $500)

As the office administrator for a 45-person industrial maintenance company, I manage all electrical and mechanical parts ordering—roughly $250,000 annually across 12 vendors. I report to both operations and finance, which means I see the invoices that come out of every decision. Over the past four years, one pattern keeps repeating: people replace expensive parts before checking the basics.

Take ABB VFD fault 2310, for instance. When one of our ABB ACH580 VFD units stopped, the display simply read "2310." The lead technician was ready to order a new drive. I asked if we'd measured the incoming voltage first. Ten minutes later, we found a loose terminal on the input side. The drive was fine.

The truth is, most electrical problems look similar from the outside. The right diagnostic path depends on what you're testing. So I'll break this down the same way I've learned to think about it: three scenarios, three different approaches, one common tool.

No Single Answer: Three Scenarios That Look Alike

If you search "how do you measure voltage with a multimeter," you'll get a generic answer. But the real question is: what are you measuring? The technique changes based on the equipment.

• Industrial drives (ABB VFDs): Measure three-phase input voltage and DC bus voltage.
• Low-voltage control panels (like the Jandy AquaLink RS): Measure transformer input and output.
• Ignition components (like NGK spark plug wires): Measure resistance, not voltage.

Why does this distinction matter? Because a multimeter is only as good as the person choosing the right setting and the right test point. Use the wrong method and you'll miss the fault entirely.

Scenario A: ABB VFD Fault 2310 and Input Voltage

ABB VFDs—ACS355, ACS580, ACH580—are workhorses. They run pumps, fans, conveyors. But when they stop, the fault code isn't always obvious. Fault 2310, in our experience, often points to an output-side problem or wiring issue. Not always. Which is exactly why measuring voltage first is critical.

Here's what I've seen work:

1. Set your multimeter to AC voltage (V~).
2. Measure L1-L2, L2-L3, and L1-L3. Expect the nominal line voltage ±10%. If one leg is significantly lower or higher than the others, you've likely found the root cause.
3. Measure the DC bus voltage in the drive's DC terminals. For a 480V input, you should see roughly 650V DC (1.35 × 480V). A reading far outside that range suggests the rectifier or pre-charge circuit is failing.
4. If input and bus are good, check the motor-side wiring. But this is where many people get fooled.

VFD outputs are PWM, not a clean sine wave. A basic multimeter will show a voltage that looks plausible, but it may be off by 20% or more. A replacement decision should never rely on a non-true-RMS meter. That lesson came from a $9 mistake.

Two years ago, I bought a cheap multimeter from a hardware store to keep in the office. It read 208V on a line that our electrician later measured at 240V. We almost ordered a replacement transformer based on that reading. The correct transformer cost $500 more than the meter. The cheap meter is now buried in a drawer. I still kick myself for not spending an extra $140 on a proper Fluke or similar brand.

The ABB drive manual is your best friend. I know the maintenance team has seen me flip through the PDF more than once. For fault 2310, the manual often lists several possible causes: output current imbalance, motor insulation issue, or a bad connection. The only way to narrow it down is with your multimeter.

So when someone tells me they can save money with a generic multimeter, I think of fault 2310. The same logic applies to buying ABB drive parts. A non-authorized discount might save $300 up front, but if the drive arrives with no tech support or a warranty that isn't honored, the "savings" evaporate. I'd rather pay a small premium for an authorized distributor who can answer a phone call.

“A fault code is an invitation, not a verdict.” — our maintenance lead

Scenario B: Jandy AquaLink RS Control Panel

Not every control problem is industrial. We service a few buildings that use Jandy AquaLink RS control panels for pool equipment. When a Jandy AquaLink RS control panel isn't powering on, the first instinct is to replace the whole board. But first—measure the transformer.

Most of these panels use a step-down transformer that delivers 24V AC to the control board. Here's a safe way to check:

• Measure the primary side (line voltage input). Expect 120V or 240V depending on setup.
• Measure the secondary side (the 24V terminal). If you have input but no output, the transformer is the issue.
• Check the fuse. It sounds almost too simple, but in my experience, a blown fuse is the cause more often than a failed board.

One point: always measure at the connector, not just the wire ends. A loose spade terminal can give you an open reading even when the transformer is fine. I learned this the hard way when a service call to a pool site took three unnecessary hours. The panel was fine. A terminal had wiggled loose during winter. Not ideal, but workable.

Scenario C: NGK (52218) RC-FDZ013 Spark Plug Wire Set

Now for the odd one. When people ask me about measuring "voltage" on spark plug wires, I have to stop them. For the NGK (52218) RC-FDZ013 spark plug wire set, the right measurement is resistance, not voltage.

Here's why: the wire's job is to carry a high-voltage pulse. The condition of the cable's conductor is best checked with the resistance range (Ω symbol) on your multimeter. Measure from one end of the wire to the other. A good wire will show a specified resistance, usually in the thousands of ohms range. An open circuit (infinite resistance) means the internal conductor is broken. A value close to zero (lower than the specification) could indicate a short or damaged insulation.

Can you measure the voltage on a running ignition system? Technically, yes, but you need a high-impedance meter and a pickup, not a standard multimeter. Don't attempt it with a basic meter unless the instructions explicitly allow it. That's a lesson I'd rather you not repeat.

It may seem out of place, but this fits the broader point: the right test depends on the component. Using a multimeter isn't just about "how" to measure voltage—it's about knowing which measurement to take.

How to Know Which Scenario You're In

When a fault code appears, don't run straight to the parts catalog. Ask yourself:

• Is the device a motor drive? Start with AC input voltage and DC bus.
• Is it a low-voltage control panel? Start with the transformer and fuse.
• Is it a wiring harness or ignition component? Measure resistance, not voltage.

Before opening any panel, make sure you're wearing appropriate PPE and the area is dry. Even a 24V control circuit can startle you. I'm not an electrician; work with someone who is if you're unsure. My experience is based on roughly 200 purchase and repair cycles over four years. If your facility uses different equipment—say, servo drives or high-voltage switchgear—your troubleshooting steps may differ. I can't speak to that beyond basic principles. But the core idea holds: measure first, then replace.

And if you're considering buying a multimeter, a $20 meter will get you in the door. But if you're diagnosing industrial equipment, spend a little more for a true RMS model. That $150 instrument will save you $500 the first time it catches a misread.

As for the ABB drives themselves, the same value-over-price logic applies. The cheapest quote isn't the cheapest supply chain. We've seen discounted drives with no documentation, no regional support, and warranty headaches that canceled out the savings. A legitimate distributor with a technical phone line is worth the extra few percentage points in cost. That's a lesson worth paying attention to.

So glad I double-checked that loose terminal before we issued a $3,000 purchase order. Almost didn't. Would have been a very expensive "ten minutes of checking the basics."